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Chrysler 300 Custom Chassis - Suspension - Wheels and Tires Discuss anything related to Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension, Chassis Mods, Driveline, Differentials, Half Shafts, Sway Bars, Coil Overs, Lowering Springs, Strut Braces, etc.


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  #1  
Old 06-04-2010, 03:21 PM
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Default D.I.Y. Tension strut replacement

I know, we have a few D.I.Y. TS replacement how-to but thought I would add my two cents on this job.

I finally replaced both front tension struts this morning, the job took me roughly 1.5 hours. The bushings were shot, as well as the ball joints........ It’s the bad ball joints that make all the clunking noise. So, I think people that spend the money on the pedders replacement bushings may be wasting their time and money? The pedders bushings may very well out last the ball joints and I’m pretty sure you can not re-use the pedders bushings? But I’m sure the pedders bushing are more solid than the stock parts. I’m just not sure it’s worth spending that extra cash and having to replace the TS in 2-3 years because of bad ball joints on the TS again.

I can say that wow! After driving around with bad tension struts for so long my car feeling real sloppy and you can hear every little bump on the road….now with the new tension struts my car feels tight and like new and NO CLUNKING!

Within the last couple of months parts replaced to find the dreaded LX clunk;
1. Sway bar bushings @ 8.00 ea. still clunk

2. Moog tres @ 20.00 ea. still clunk

3. OEM tension struts @ 100.00 ea. clunk gone!


total = $256.00 (cdn) plus tax. And no more clunk over the bumps.

Tools of the trade;
6 lb hammer….oh yeah! I love this hammer.
Breaker bar

Socket set
Wrenches
Pickle fork (ball joint separator)
High performance penetrant (for the east coast rust)
And mans best friend for brake bolts Anti-seize

I removed the brake calipers and unbolted the dust shield to move it out of the way. Makes it easier to get at the ball joint. First I loosened the nuts on both ends of the TS. I really had to smack the pickle fork with my trusty ‘ol 6 lb hammer to get it to separate but after a few hits it popped out. Remove the bolts and pull the old TS out, clean up around the knuckle and install new TS.
Pretty straight forward job and saves you some cash, I think a shop wants $240.00 or so to do this?



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Last edited by reinhard; 06-04-2010 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reinhard View Post
..........I can say that wow! After driving around with bad tension struts for so long my car feeling real sloppy..........
First off. Good job on the strut change out. And beans to you for the documentation.

Secondly, that comment you made is why people use Pedders bushings. The marked inprovement you felt by fixing the torn out stock bushes, is even more so with a Pedders upgrade. The stock bushings, even brand new, are VERY soft and have a lot of play. Not to mention that you will be in the same boat again in about 20K miles.

If you really wanted to tighten up your ride, and / or introduce some reliability, you would need to upgrade your bushings... Most people do it at the same time since it's apart anyway...


And IMO... I believe you can reuse the pedders bushings. I know some people will say no. And I KNOW pedders will say no.. But I think you can if you get the old ones out without damage, and maybe press them back on with a little blue loctight.... I know that's what I would do having had worked with them already and understanding the forces they see...

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Last edited by trs300; 06-04-2010 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:46 PM
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yes i agree that the pedders bushing will/should be much better than stock. only time will tell when people have some years on these bushings? and try and re-use them? The ball joint will fail.

IMO;the ball joint will go before the pedders bushing and you'll be in the the same boat as i will be in with stock? if you can not re-use them? and off you go to buy another Tension strut.
Unless you can service the ball joint and re use the pedders bushings? i just do not see the since in spending the extra money on the bushings when the real problem for slop & noise are the ball joints. ..you also need special tools? a machine shop to press the old ones out... how much are the pedders bushings anyway?
What i notice is that the ball joints were the culprit in the slop & noise from the front end. now with new OEM TS my cars front end is once again tight. Also i got a lot more than 20Ks out of the OEM TS.
So let's say i have to spend 200 bucks every 2.5-3 years and 1.5 h/labor take bad part out, install new part...easy.
Now when you have to service your TS w/ pedders bushings w/ bad ball joints i think it will be a little bit more work, won't it? Yeah if i had a srt that was set up for some track time i would invest in aftermarket bushings etc.....but as a daily driver i want to run my car with as little money spent as i can.

"..........I can say that wow! After driving around with bad tension struts for so long my car feeling real sloppy.........."

This quote was to describe my ride with the bad TS, my car feels like brand new again
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Last edited by reinhard; 06-04-2010 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:26 AM
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Great job on the DIY. I'm in the process of replacing my entire front end, but using the Pedders bushings. The Tension Struts are by far the easiest to replace for those needing new ones. Again, great job on replacing yours.
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Old 06-06-2010, 02:04 PM
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This is the next thing I gotta buy and then I'm ready to do some wrench turning. Thanks for the pics and the writeup. Beans to you!
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:05 PM
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Hello Everyone, I got a question, as we would have to use a pickle fork to loosen the ball joint, when replacing it, how will it get in there? Bang it in, with torque from tightening the nut or what? Sorry for the rookie question and thanks in advance.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:59 PM
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good work,
where did you find the parts?
i search online for tension struts but i cant really trust all online part stores.
And did you find it directly under "Tension Struts" or "Control Arms" ?
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Old 10-30-2013, 12:47 PM
LorisScar LorisScar is offline
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The "Tension Struts" or "Control Arms" are available from Rock Auto, much cheaper than your local auto parts store. I bought the MEVOTECH Part #MS25120 and #MS25121 (for both sides of the car) because they come with the zirk/grease fittings so they can be greased. As of this posting they are $49.89 each. I checked three local auto parts stores and all of them run about $80 each WITHOUT the zirk fitting. Like some of the other posts I've seen here, it took about 1.5 hours total to replace them in my driveway. About the only 'special' tool you'll need is a pickle fork. Bye- bye clunking noise. My 2006 300 Touring has 95k miles. They should have been replaced at about 50k miles. If these new ones last another 50k miles, it's all good. By the way, I also replaced the lower ball joints (from Rock auto) and stabilizer links (from eBay) - all with zirk fittings. Oh, last thing, nice post with the pics
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:39 AM
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My 06 300c has two lower control arms.. a rearward and forward. My attempts at getting the nuts loose on them have failed and even broke my tool... most of my thudd'ing and rattling is gone with the inner/outer tie rods and sway bar link though, but the clunk is still there.
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Old 03-22-2014, 04:13 PM
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I am looking to replace my struts. Any recommendations on brand? I am looking to tighten up but not make the ride harsh.
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